| Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
| Controlled Burn T A4 |
| Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
| El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
| Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
| Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
| Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Freerider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
| Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
| Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
| Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
| Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
| Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
| Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
| Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
| Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
| Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
| Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
| Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
| Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
| Ready to Go T A5+ X |
| Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
| Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
| Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
| Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
| Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
| West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
| West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3000 ft (909 m), 31 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, 1958 FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 386,896 total · 1,813/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Feb 27, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
All Photos All Photos All Photos All Photos All Photos All Photos Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsPlease visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
El Capitan is home to numerous classic routes but "The Nose" is the mega classic of them all. Towering nearly 3000' this route offers 31 pitches of superb climbing right up the middle of the wall. Often referred to as the "best rock climb in the world" it is obvious why this route is one of the most sought after big walls in the valley and the world. Most of the pitches on this route are outstanding but with classics such as the "Stovelegs", "King Swing" and "Great Roof" you'll wish it would never end. Although this is a great climb the route is still very demanding, sustained and exposed and not to be taken lightly.
Here are a few tips that might improve a parties chances of success and enjoyment on the route. First if you and or your partner(s) can lead 5.10 solidly this will greatly speed up the amount of time it takes to climb this route as a large percentage of the climb is 5.10 or easier. Second study the topo carefully because there are numerous opportunities to either link or use alternate belays in order to skip pitches (a team of three can also skip hauling certain pitches with some good planning). Unavoidable factors are the number of parties on the route and the weather, both of which can make the route not so classic. For pitch by pitch info and topo's the "Yosemite Big Walls Supertopo" guide book is highly recommended.
This is probably one of the easiest big wall approaches you could ask for. From El Capitan Meadow cross the road and find one of the obvious approach trails which should lead to a clearing. From the clearing you should be able to find a well worn path leading north and slightly west towards the wall. Once at the base of the wall you'll be standing directly under "The Nose". Hike up and left around the foot of the wall until it is possible to traverse back right and you should end up on a nice dirt ledge and the start of the first pitch. This approach takes about 10 to 15 minutes.
Bring two sets of nuts with offsets, one or two sets of micro nuts with offsets and two or three sets of cams from .5" to 3.5". Also bring some micro cams and a 4.5" cam, leave the hammer and pins at home this route goes all clean.